- Anu Isoaho
- Sep 16, 2025
- 13 min read
The Many Forms of Mascara - From Devil Exorcism to Cake Mascara, Eyelash Extensions and the Almost Perfect Dr. Hauschka Mascara
In mid-August, I received an interesting package from Dr. Hauschka's importer. Dr. Hauschka's third mascara variant, Long Lasting Mascara, had been released and I received the new one to test in black and brown shades. I've said this before, but the hardest natural cosmetics products to find that really work have been mascara and deodorant. How did Dr. Hauschka's mascara fare? Hold on a moment, dear friends. Mascara has been the most popular makeup product for women throughout the centuries and it deserves a little history tour.
"Mascara"
The Collins English Dictionary defines mascara as "a cosmetic substance that darkens, lengthens, curls, colors, and thickens the eyelashes and is applied with a brush or wand." The word mascara is possibly derived from the Spanish word máscara, meaning mask or stain, or from the Italian word maschera that means mask. In Catalan, the same word describes soot or black stain. The Portuguese word máscara also means mask, and mascarra means dark stain or soot. In Arabic, the word maskharah refers to a clown. In Hebrew (from Isaiah 3:16), there is a word that refers to women's eyes, to flirt with the eyes, to stare, or to paint the eyes. In the mid-19th century, French conquerors found antimony powder in the old town of Mascara, Algeria. Nomadic tribes used the powder not only for beauty but also to protect themselves from various eye diseases, so the city of Mascara is also a possible reason for the "mascara".
It all probably started in ancient Egypt
Eye makeup was a way to keep the eyes healthy and avoid eye infections.
Eyebrow and mascara dyes have been mixed in ancient Egypt since around 4000 BC. and both women and men colored eyelashes, eyelids, and eyebrows with a substance called kohl. It was made from coal, lead and oils, beeswax and dyes such as malachite and galena. The stickiness was achieved by using honey or crocodile dung.
The eye of Horus – a symbol of protection, security and well-being – and the eye of Ra, or the feminine part of the sun god Ra, were visible in Egyptian makeup. Eye makeup was a way to keep the eyes healthy and avoid eye infections, for example (of course, eyelashes and eyebrows already protect the eyes from sweat and dust); for this reason everyone from rulers to servants wore eye makeup. Kohl was believed to ward off evil spirits and protect the soul. The ancient Egyptians also believed that the eyes were the sacred windows to their souls.
Kohl continued to be used in the Babylonian, Greek, and Roman empires, but after the fall of the Roman Empire, kohl fell out of use on the European continent, where it had been considered a purely cosmetic substance.
In ancient Rome, 750 BC, long eyelashes were considered a symbol of youth, and the beauty ideals of the time favored thick, long, and dark eyelashes. Dyes used included a mixture of charcoal and burnt cork, kohl, charred rose petals, date stones, and ash. Mascara was also used to indicate chastity after Pliny the Elder wrote that fornication could cause eyelashes to fall out.
Eyelash enhancement took on additional meanings over the centuries. The ancient Hindu text Kama Sutra contains a recipe for an eyelash thickener that could be used as a seductive agent. In the Middle Ages, eyelashes and eyebrows were plucked out to emphasize the forehead, which was considered a sign of extreme beauty. Expressive eyes were thought to be too erotic.
The church banned the use of cosmetics during the Renaissance, but women continued to use mascara and other products in secret. Mascara was usually made from crushed walnut shells. The most famous person of her time who wore makeup was Simonetta Vespucci, who was painted by Botticelli.
During the reign of Queen Elizabeth around 1500, her style was widely copied. The Queen had red hair and reddish eyelashes, which is why women tried to secretly get similar ones, since makeup was not generally accepted. The reddish color was usually achieved by using crushed berries and soot, but some of the dyeing sessions resulted in failures and burning the skin.
Rimmel
During the Victorian era in the 1890s, makeup was back in fashion. A lot of effort was put into creating the illusion of long, dark eyelashes, and women used everything from a mixture of ash and elderberries to the sticky soot of oil lamps to get darker and longer eyelashes. In 1872, Queen Victoria's French perfumer Eugène Rimmel developed the first non-toxic eyelash volumizing product commercially available in the UK, made from petroleum jelly and coal dust. Rimmel mascara originally came in the form of a cake.
In the early 20th century, the use of mascara quickly became established, especially in upper-class circles. The first false eyelashes made of human hair were also developed, although their use did not become established until the 1930s. The emergence of trends was influenced by the golden age film stars, who liked to emphasize their facial expressions with the help of bold eyelashes.
Around the same time, on the other side of the Atlantic...
At the beginning of the 20th century, in Chicago, USA, Mabel Williams fell in love with a man whose heart was with another woman. Mabel wanted to attract his attention, so she used coal dust from an oil lamp to get spectacular eyelashes and eyebrows. Mabel's brother, Thomas L. Williams, saw his sister's beautification efforts, and in 1915, he invented the mix of coal dust and petroleum jelly to give eyelashes color and showiness. Thomas developed the mixture further and at first the product was sold through mail order. He founded a cosmetics company and named it Maybelline (Maybelline + vaseline). By the 1920s mascara was already being sold in discount stores. From the beginning, the products were marketed with the help of Hollywood stars.
The application of both Rimmel and Maybelline products was messy at best. A significant improvement occurred in 1957, when Helena Rubinstein invented a formula that turned mascara from a hard cake into a cream-based product and packaged in a tube with a brush; the cream was squeezed into a brush and applied to the lashes and although the application of the product was still messy, it was a step towards the modern mascara product. In 1958, Revlon introduced the first tube mascara with a spiral tip and a couple of years later, Revlon already brought the first colored mascaras to the market; blue became a popular color. In the 1970s, brown and brightly colored mascaras continued to gain popularity, although on the other hand, minimalism and naturalness were trendy in makeup. Max Factor even released a No Color Mascara in the 1980s; at the same time everything was exaggerated, from colors to thickness to volume. Of the colored mascaras, blue, green and purple in particular became trendy. Eyelash curlers and shaping mascaras came into fashion in the 1990s.
Everything evolves
The way we use mascara has changed over time, as has its composition. In addition, the shape of mascara brushes has varied greatly, from thick to thinner, from comb-like to spiral-shaped, and from silicone to other materials.
Mascara is still one of the most popular cosmetic products ever used. New formulations are constantly being released and products are often marketed with an emphasis on veganism, safety, and more environmentally friendly ingredients. In addition, mascaras are marketed with different formulations and active ingredients, such as growth-enhancing peptides. In the 2000s, countless products have been released to lengthen, add volume, and thicken eyelashes. Eyelash serums, permanent curls, and tints can be called mascara trends. Various public figures and social media influencers also create trends (for example, the Kardashian sisters).
Makeup trends have their own names. For example, we are talking about the starry-eyed look (lashes of different lengths) or doll eyelashes. With the popularity of eyelash extensions, mascaras have also started to be sold with the promise of a false lash effect. Eyelash tufts or eyelash growth serums may be used to help with this type of mascara. One big factor to consider is the explosive growth in the popularity of Korean cosmetics. Korean technology has always been at the forefront of development and Korean mascaras are also popular and proven to work.
Composition of "traditional" mascaras
Mascaras consist of pigments, oils, waxes, and preservatives. Black and brown mascaras are typically colored with iron and titanium oxides, and some mascaras also contain ultramarine blue. The pigment in black mascara is practically the same as the one used for example in the Egyptian eyelash products.
The most common oils used in mascaras are linseed, castor, eucalyptus, sesame, turpentine, and lanolin. The most common waxes in mascaras are paraffin, carnauba, and beeswax. The different properties of mascaras are achieved through variations in several other ingredients. For example, waterproof mascaras require hydrophobic ingredients such as dodecane, while mascaras intended to lengthen or curl lashes often contain nylon or rayon microfibers.
Mascara usually has a shelf life of two to four months, and it is generally recommended to replace mascara every three months. (I admit. I always stick with the same product for as long as possible, but I replace mascara after six months of use at the latest.) Mascara should be cleaned properly from the eyelashes, because if cleaned poorly, it can cause eye irritation. In addition, the brush always carries loose eyelashes and dust from the eyelashes into the product. (When I got an eye infection, I had to throw away a freshly opened mascara, because bacteria is transferred to the product itself with the brush, and the product is therefore ruined.)
Mascara, like any other cosmetic product, can cause an allergic reaction. The reaction can come from any ingredient in the product, but commonly allergenic ingredients include methylparaben, aluminum powder, ceteareth-20, butylparaben, and benzyl alcohol.
By traditional mascara, I mean mascaras other than those from natural cosmetics.
I've tried everything
Nowadays, there are several good, functional, and long-lasting mascaras in natural cosmetics; even those that can be called waterproof.
I've been thinking about my history of using mascaras; I started wearing makeup when I was about 18. I remember that my first mascaras were from the Body Shop and Kanebo. When I switched to using natural cosmetics in my twenties, mascara was always something else. For a long time, I used Kanebo's and Clinique's so-called 38 mascaras, which come off with warm water. I tried waterproof mascaras from time to time, but taking them of felt like a hassle or the eye makeup remover intended for them made my eyes sting. It wasn't until 5-7 years ago that I completely switched to only natural cosmetics mascaras, when after numerous experiments I found reasonably good products. The development has been quite amazing. Nowadays, there are several good, functional, and long lasting mascaras in natural cosmetics; even those that can be called waterproof.
The biggest reason for me to use natural cosmetics is health. I don’t want dangerous chemicals in my body. And even though this is just one example, it says a lot. A 2021 study tested over 200 traditional makeup and hygiene products. Organic fluorine, an indicator of PFAS compounds, was found in more than half of the samples. High fluoride levels were most commonly found in waterproof mascara (82% of the brands tested). PFAS compounds are easily absorbed through the skin and tear ducts, and when used in lip products, they are often accidentally swallowed. (And note: manufacturers often don't label the products that contain PFAS compounds.)
PFAS compounds (per- and polyfluorinated alkyl compounds) are man-made chemicals that are used for their water, dirt, and grease-repellent properties. In addition to cosmetics, PFAS compounds are used in Teflon pans, technical clothing, ski waxes, and food packaging. They are durable and break down extremely slowly in the environment and in the body, which is why they are called forever chemicals. PFAS compounds accumulate in humans and the environment and are associated with health problems, such as learning and behavioral disorders in children, liver damage, reproductive and developmental disorders, impaired immune system function, and hormonal and metabolic disorders.
Traditional cosmetics use a lot of petrochemical ingredients such as PEG/PPG compounds, plastic chemicals, silicone, and strong preservatives as well as synthetic fragrances.
Ingredients of natural cosmetics
Natural cosmetics use ingredients that are of natural origin. Therefore, some animal-derived ingredients such as honey, milk, lanolin, and beeswax can also be used to make natural cosmetics. For this reason, vegan natural cosmetics are always mentioned separately. It is essential that nothing that is harmful to the environment or people is used in natural cosmetics. The mainly plant-based ingredients of natural cosmetics are usually plant extracts, waxes and oils, essential oils, minerals, algae, clays, sugars, salts, and dried plant parts.
Organic/organic-quality raw materials are mentioned separately in natural cosmetics. In general, the raw materials of natural cosmetics must be sustainably sourced, and the preservatives used must also come from natural sources or, for example, are familiar from food products (including sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate).
Dr. Hauschka Long Lasting Mascara
My longest workday was probably about 16 hours long and the mascara was still flawlessly where it was supposed to be.
I have been using Dr. Hauschka's new Long Lasting Mascara (colors black 01 and brown 02) for a month now. The long lasting mascara is Dr. Hauschka's third mascara variant. The volumizing and separating mascaras are also still available.
The long lasting mascara has a completely new composition and packaging including the brush. The brush is rather large, but tapers towards the tip, which makes it easy to apply the mascara to the lower lashes and short lashes as well. The product's soft texture also means better spreadability. The almost creamy texture is one of the first things I noticed, because it differs in a good way from other products I've tried. However, the two most important first observations were these: I must have sighed in delight when I pulled the mascara out of its cardboard packaging. It is a terribly elegant makeup product with a white cap and black bottom. The mascara packaging feels perfect in my hand and is suitably sturdy, but not clumsy. In addition, the mascara smells absolutely heavenly! It has a light rose scent and I immediately thought of Dr. Hauschka's eye makeup remover, which has the same scent. (My favorite mascara cleanser!) I wouldn't have guessed that the scent of mascara is something that impresses me.
My first impression of the new mascara was somewhat perfection. I was nervous for the first few days, because the long-lasting mascara is promised to last up to 12 hours without smudging. I have tested its durability carefully. My longest workday was probably about 16 hours long and the mascara was still flawlessly where it was supposed to be. Not even a small black smudge under the eyes. So the mascara is not waterproof, but it has held up well to wiping and weather. Even on rainy days, I haven't noticed any smudges around my eyes. The only thing that has caused the mascara to run has been crying. Is the salty tear fluid mascara's enemy?
Dr. Hauschka's mascara lengthens the eyelashes considerably, but I think it also makes them thicker. I never understood what it meant when someone said that a product gives the eyelashes and eyes a perfect shape, but now I do. The eyelashes look simply beautiful. The color is especially intense in the black and the brown shade is the perfect brown: not too reddish or light, but just the right dark brown. For some reason, the brown color doesn't last quite the promised twelve hours, but it's still amazing, because there have been only small specks of brown color on the lower eyelids at the end of the day.
A true natural cosmetics mascara that I will continue to use
Mineral color pigments, medicinal plant extracts, beeswax, cane sugar, and black tea. Pretty wonderful ingredients for a mascara.
The long lasting mascara has a lash care formula and I have noticed after using it for a month that my lashes are really doing well. The mascara doesn't irritate my eyes and I have not had panda eyes at the end of the day. Mineral color pigments, medicinal plant extracts, beeswax, cane sugar, and black tea. Pretty wonderful-sounding ingredients for a mascara. The product is excellent in terms of usability and spreadability; I hardly have to clean mascara messes with a cotton swab after applying the product.
I have tested so many different mascaras that it has been exciting to notice that the quality really makes a difference. Dr. Hauschka's products have always been of superior quality, but this mascara surprised me too. Dr. Hauschka is certified natural cosmetics and over 90 percent of the plant-based ingredients come from organic farming. The ingredients primarily come from Dr. Hauschka's own biodynamically cultivated medicinal herb garden, from Demeter fields or from wild collections in the Swabian Alb.
My eyes are sensitive. That's one reason why I will continue to use Dr. Hauschka's Long Lasting Mascara. Another reason is the user experience. I feel like I'm using a luxury product that really cares for my eyelashes. The scent and the packaging are wonderful additional reasons to use the product. I can't think of any way to improve the product. If tear resistance was possible, I would of course want it, but I can't say what it would require from the product development and ingredients of the mascara.
If you haven't found the right natural cosmetics mascara for you yet, I recommend you try the Dr. Hauschka Long Lasting Mascara. Thank you Lupaus Puoti for the wonderful new mascaras!
INCI (ingredients) and other technical information:
Dr. Hauschkan Long Lasting Mascara | 01 black
Water (Aqua), Alcohol, Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Acacia Senegal Gum, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Pullulan, Fragrance (Parfum)*, Silk (Serica) Powder, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Potassium Phosphate, Magnesium Oxide, Alumina, Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Rose Flower Oil/Extract, Lavandula Oil/Extract, Citronellol*, Geraniol*, Linalool*, Eugenol*. *from natural essential oils
Dr. Hauschkan Long Lasting Mascara | 02 brown
Water (Aqua), Alcohol, Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Acacia Senegal Gum, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Euphrasia Officinalis Extract, Pullulan, Fragrance (Parfum)*, Silk (Serica) Powder, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Potassium Phosphate, Magnesium Oxide, Alumina, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Carmine (CI 75470), Rose Flower Oil/Extract, Lavandula Oil/Extract, Citronellol*, Geraniol*, Linalool*, Eugenol*. *from natural essential oils
Dr. Hauschka
Dr. Hauschka's products are manufactured in Germany; the manufacturer of the products, WALA Heilmittel GmbH, has been operating since 1935. The mascara tube has a capacity of 8 ml (normally, the size of a mascara is between six and eight milliliters). When recycling, the outer packaging of the mascaras is placed in the cardboard collection and the cap is placed in the mixed waste after use. All Dr. Hauschka's mascaras are tested by ophthalmologists and are also suitable for people with sensitive eyes and contact lens users. Dr. Hauschka's products have also been awarded with the international NATRUE quality certificate.
Prices and places to buy
Dr. Hauschka's products are available at, for example, Sokos, Sinunapteekki, Stockmann, Lyko, and the Boozt online store. Lupaus Puoti is a Finnish online store for natural cosmetics and organic products, and you can find all Dr. Hauschka's products there that are available in Finland. Lupaus Puoti's outlet section is worth checking out when shopping online, because there are always great finds there. In addition to organic food and delicacies, the shop also has a wide selection of ecological home cleaning products. I highly recommend it!
Natural cosmetics mascaras usually cost between ten and 35 euros. The regular price of Dr. Hauschka's long-lasting mascara is 29.50 euros, which is the at high end of the price range. However, most of the mascaras I have tried do not stay on the lashes or wear/run off during the day or irritate the eyes in some way, so I would say that quality is worth paying for. Lupaus Puoti often has Dr. Hauschka's products on sale, so it is worth subscribing to the shop's newsletter or check their social media channels.
Sources:
Dr. Hauchka https://www.drhauschka.fi/
Lupaus Puoti https://www.lupauspuoti.fi/fi
Klemettilä, Tiina: Muistatko, kun maskara oli kakussa? 14.02.2008. Yleisradio. Arkistoitu 29.4.2013 https://archive.is/mRInJ#selection-363.0-395.151
Ripsienpidennyksistä tuli normi, ja megaripset haluavat kaikki – asiantuntijat kertovat, miksi https://www.is.fi/menaiset/tyyli/art-2000001951897.html
Erään ripsivärin historia https://kotiliesi.fi/ihmiset/nostalgia/eraan-ripsivarin-historia/
Luonnostaan ikoninen! Ripsivärin evoluution ytimessä https://www.madaracosmetics.com/fi/blog/luonnostaan-ikoninen-ripsivarin-evoluution-ytimessa?srsltid=AfmBOopXblAn4nlWTa_zpoEtsI4mjPhxU9kjkNzcUIi3etkEnFbBy3-G
Naiset ovat kaunistautuneet aina - katso 8 mielenkiintoista faktaa meikin historiasta https://www.voice.fi/muoti-ja-kauneus/a-60006
Ripsiväri on yksi vanhin kauneustuote - lue, miten naiset ovat ehostaneet silmiään aikojen saatossa https://www.voice.fi/muoti-ja-kauneus/a-169427
The History of Mascara https://www.backthenhistory.com/articles/the-history-of-mascara
Beauty Private Investigator: How Mascara Became a Thing https://www.makeup.com/makeup-tutorials/expert-tips/makeup-history-of-mascara
Greendeal / Luonnonkosmetiikka - mitä se on? https://greendeal.fi/pages/luonnonkosmetiikka-mita-se-on?srsltid=AfmBOooF8iAZ9TRsyw0AZu5H_kOwodA3pw7DjeRF_kN0j_ohvsuljDXw
NATRUE https://natrue.org/
Pictures:
Dr. Hauchka product pictures, Jari Ervasti
Egyptian cosmetics (Beauty-case): https://collezioni.museoegizio.it/en-GB/material/S_8479/?description=&inventoryNumber=&title=&cgt=&yearFrom=&yearTo=&materials=&provenance=TT8&acquisition=&epoch=&dynasty=&pharaoh=
